Posts Tagged ‘puppy potty training’

Potty Training Puppies Help and Information

Monday, November 30th, 2009

Getting a new puppy is very exciting. It doesn’t take long, however, to realize that a new puppy takes more patience than you may have thought. Potty training a puppy, including teaching him to go outside requires a lot of effort on your part.

If you try potty training your puppy to go outdoors too soon, say at one month, you will probably meet with little success. Wait until your puppy is at least two months old to get started potty training in the great outdoors. If the puppy is with its mother, you may have an easier task of training, as the puppy will tend to take its cues from the mother. Otherwise, one thing you need to do is establish a routine.

Instead of running your puppy outside every few minutes, start with thirty minute intervals. The times between going outside can be longer or shorter depending on your dog. Then, take your puppy out around mealtime, so that your own meal will not be interrupted to jump up and run outside with your puppy.

Get a routine going and maintain it and you will have your puppy potty trained in no time. Trust me; it seems to take forever if you don’t work with your dog on a schedule. You and your puppy will be more happy with a schedule which you intend to stick with.

If you think working on a routine takes potty training your dog too far, reconsider. Establishing a routine is a proven way to train your dog and it is pretty simple to establish a regular routine. Your dog will learn more easily when following a routine.

Sometimes you have to try to determine why your puppy doesn’t want to go outside. This is difficult, but not the worst problem you will face. There are other issues like puppy whining and barking. Take one thing at a time. Don’t give your puppy sensory overload. Get him accustomed to pottying outside first. This will be your most pressing task.

Find out how to potty train a puppy fast. Visit pottytrainpuppyfast.info to get more information on puppies and dog training.

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How To Properly Toilet Train Your Dog

Sunday, November 29th, 2009

Generally, dogs are very clean animals – they won’t soil close to where they eat, or where they sleep. But living in a house is unnatural for an animal whose instincts would be to roam wherever she wants to go, so you will have to help her learn where and when she can relieve herself.

It is essential that you form good toilet habits for your dog as early on as possible. Trying to break the habit of a dog is quite difficult and it can be very frustrating. You need to use guidance and encouragement to help the pet. Animal behaviorists have some helpful tips that you can use to help with the housebreaking of your pet.

Believe it or not, dogs are sanitary creatures. If a dog does soil accidentally in the wrong place, it is likely that it will be far from his dog dish, at least six to ten feet. This is true for the place where the dog sleeps as well. But, unless you find a good place for her to go and train her in that manner, the rest of your house is okay to them.

Training a fully grown dog is essentially the same as a puppy. You’ll need to take him outside every few hours and also 30 minutes after he eats. It is about repetition. Stay with the pet until she goes, and then praise her when she does. If she does not go, bring her back inside and try again in fifteen minutes. Watch her though. If the dog starts sniffing and circling take them out right away as this is a sign that she is about to go. Pay attention to her signs and take her out. Soon, she will relate to going outside to going to the bathroom.

Some dogs are housebroken much faster than others. Some dogs personality will cause her to go one way or the other. But, if you take her outside at the right time, it will go smoother. A puppy of less than four months old will need to go out during the night. Older puppies can hold it that long. A dog that cries to be let out has an urgent need. Get up and take her out, she needs every chance to succeed that she can get. Positive reinforcement is necessary for success.

Your approach and how you treat your dog will greatly affect the learning ability. If you catch your dog going in the act, distract her with a clap or call her name. Take her outside calmly at that time and praise her for finishing outside. Clean up any accident that you find on the floor. If the dog approaches during this time, ignore her. Don’t talk to or punish her at this point. The worst thing that you can do is to yell at her or physically punish her. This will cause her to fear you and to not bond as well to you. She wont connect it to the accident at all. Ignoring her is the best course of action here.

Find out how to potty train a puppy fast. Visit pottytrainpuppyfast.info to get more information on puppies and dog training.

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Positives and Negatives of Dog Training Control Tools

Saturday, November 14th, 2009

Every so often the differentiation between training discipline and constraint is needlessly confused. Using verbal commands and non-verbal clues, with leashes or snacks, to solicit wanted behavior is training discipline. Using choke or ’stop-barking’ collars, electronic fences or barriers and related devices is for constraint or prevention of unwanted behavior.

Constraint and the use of control devices isn’t unavoidably a negative factor. Dogs naturally have and look for a community hierarchy in which someone is the boss and in any human-dog pair the person has to take that position. Sometimes control tools are called for to establish that hierarchy. If not established, the result will be property destruction, potentially unhealthy state of affairs for other animals and humans, human disappointment and an erratic dog.

Choke collars were conceived to help in getting control. Dogs are like humans in that each has their own character and traits. Some are, as a result, more assertive or slower to learn. For ones that don’t react positively to a conventional leather or nylon collar, a metal choke collar can supply additional deterrence to tugging and leaping.

The imminent drawback is that, used inadequately – all too simple to do – correction collars can have the opposite result to what you expected and may even be unsafe. Choke collars fit only one way and when suitably fitted should make allowance for a one to three fingers opening between the neck and the collar. Three for bigger dogs, one for smaller. Generally speaking a collar two inches longer than the length around the neck will be adequate.

If used poorly, correction collars can rub the skin – producing irritated areas that your dog will likely scratch and make worse. These collars can also accidentally depress the windpipe. An instantaneous pull-and-release does no harm, however. Its intention is to generate unpleasant pressure. But for dogs that aggressively challenge the lead this action is probably not enough. Generally, overuse of this type of collar is not approved of, notably for smaller dogs.

Prong collars are less menacing than they look, but – in this trainer’s view – have almost no positive properties. The only positive aspect of the construction is their restricted diameter – they can only choke down so far. Nevertheless, an animal with such a determined predisposition to pull that prongs don’t give him a second thought requires more than a quick fix consisting of choking and poking. That type of critter needs dedicated attention and behavior modification management.

Halter collars encircle the neck and the face but don’t prohibit panting or prohibit drinking and eating and can give extra effectiveness in controlling behavior. The downside is they don’t assuage nipping if you are working on that problem. A conventional collar and lead or even a chest halter might be more desirable if nipping is not complication.

‘Stop-barking’ collars on occasion work when training those dogs that continue in a barking mode way past the reason to do so is gone. Barking is natural and an ordinary response to potential danger and is also used to draw attention when one becomes removed or separated from the group. But, for reasons not all that well comprehended, some individuals continue barking day in and day out or are set off by the most minor events.

Behavior modification equipment that discourages barking comes in several varieties, most notable noise and shock. Noise collars create an abbreviated, displeasing sound that diverts attention and tends to deter constant barking.

Shock collars initiate a minor but startling electric shock that can be repetitive and persistent during prolonged or obsessive barking sessions. Fair and balanced investigations of their effect draw mixed conclusions, on the other hand. As with prong collars, any dog who is a candidate for one would also profit from an attentive, professional trainer.

Now and then quick fixes are appealing and worthwhile… until they become replacements for more constructive (both to trainer and dog) long-term management. Making the effort to understand how to access your dog’s focused attention and cooperativeness without disproportionate reliance on control equipment is better. The usual effect is happier trainers and more well adjusted dogs.

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